Diego Della Valle: “In a book the 'Renaissance' crafts, universal heritage”

The new volume produced by Tod's is entitled Italian Hands and is dedicated to master craftsmen of all kinds and from all over Italy. There are wood carvers and masters of pesto, puppeteers, fishermen, sculptors. They are introduced by the patrons with whom they have collaborated for years, while Lorenzo Bringheli's shots focus on their hands at work. An unusual editorial project, and one that Diego Della Valle strongly desired, as he himself explains.

Where does the book come from?

«From the desire to convey a non-commercial but romantic message, to tell a very precise idea of ​​Italian style and quality, which can be felt everywhere in our country».

Is this the Artisan Intelligence you often talk about, as opposed to Artificial Intelligence?

"I don't actually think they are in conflict. Rather, it's a way to tell what we believe in; and to remind everyone, especially young people, how precious certain "Renaissance" professions are. Unfortunately, there are still those who consider them reductive compared to other professions, but that's not the case. The artisanal supply chain is a universal heritage that makes Made in Italy an absolute excellence. Losing it would be a tragedy for everyone and, without a new generation of artisans, that's exactly what will happen. This is also why we have had an internal training school within the company for years, the Bottega dei mestieri, and we are carrying out an educational project with the Marche region and other companies. The economy is going through a complicated moment, but certain jobs have a guaranteed future: and when the market starts up again, we must be ready."

And in the meantime?

"Companies built on the artisanal supply chain, like Tod's, must sacrifice themselves, absorbing the expenses that small businesses are no longer able to sustain. Of course, the balance sheets will be less rosy, but this is how you overcome the difficult moment. It's about helping professionals in love with their art who are lacking oxygen. If in Italy we are able to produce at unmatched levels it is thanks to them: supporting them is useful for all of us".

It is difficult to work long distance today .

"It's the way to move forward. The fact is that today the most important fashion brands are listed on the stock exchange, so they are subjected to unimaginable pressure to aim for the highest possible turnover. And this can be to the detriment of sound planning. I say this from experience: we were listed for 24 years; now that we are no longer listed, we can build the future with the right calm."

No fears about the US tariffs announced and then suspended by Trump?

"I honestly don't understand the point of it, other than to make American citizens pay more. Tariffs are not a modern term: the world economy cannot stop because of them."

Your craftsmen are completely missing from the volume: there are only two photos, one at the beginning and one at the end, dedicated to the processing of Gommino. Why?

"The Gommino is our most famous shoe and over time it has become a true symbol of lifestyle. It is a model made through precise and complex artisan techniques, we wanted to recall the affinity of the gestures needed to complete it with those of the universe narrated in the book. And I believe its new rise in the market is indicative, especially among the younger ones".

How do you explain it?

"I actually can't explain it, in the sense that today, with social media, a product goes viral suddenly and unexpectedly. However, I have noticed that the pieces that the public considers evergreen icons cyclically come back into trend. I think that in times of uncertainty, there will always be a market for those who embody a timeless, quality and durable stylistic ideal. Our customers are looking for pieces of "substance", that also satisfy them from a tactile point of view, and that go beyond the season. And the guys are very knowledgeable in the field: they recognize quality and demand it, whether it's an aperitif or a pair of shoes. We at Tod's have been working according to these principles for more than forty years, and we talk about it. Italian Hands was born from this coherence."

A strategy that pays off?

"Of course. The brands that work best from a commercial point of view are those with a strong identity, that do not give in to temporary manias."